How to Choose Fabrics for Each Season

Why fabric changes how warm you feel

Three things determine whether clothes feel warm or cool: how much air passes through, how much sweat the fabric absorbs and how quickly it dries, and how much air is trapped between the fibers. Still air conducts heat poorly, so the more air the fibers hold, the warmer the garment. Wet clothes, on the other hand, fill with water instead of air and draw heat away quickly. That's why garments of the same thickness can feel very different depending on fabric and weave.

Character of the main fabrics

Knowing the traits of fabrics you often see on labels makes it easier to choose for the season and situation. Keep in mind that the same fiber behaves differently depending on weave and thickness.

• Cotton: absorbs sweat and feels comfortable, but dries slowly once wet
• Linen: breathable and cool; wrinkling easily is part of its nature
• Wool: holds a lot of air for warmth and feels less cold than most fibers when damp
• Polyester and nylon: absorb almost no water, dry fast and are durable, but are sensitive to heat
• Rayon types: soft and cool to the touch, weaker when wet so wash with care

Summer: sweat and airflow

With summer clothes, the key is how fast sweat evaporates. For everyday wear without much sweating, breathable fabrics like cotton and linen are comfortable. On days you exercise or walk a lot, cotton soaks up sweat and clings heavily, so quick-drying synthetic performance wear is better. Loose, thin weaves are cooler than dense, thick ones, and a little room around the body lets air move. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight. Very thin, loose fabrics also let more sunlight through, though, so add a hat or a light cover-up when you're outside for long at midday.

Winter: layer the air

Several thin layers are warmer than one thick garment because air is also trapped between the layers. You can also add or remove a layer as you move between indoors and outdoors. When layering, think of each layer as having its own job.

• Inner: the layer against your skin — a fabric that doesn't hold sweat
• Middle: the insulating layer — air-holding fabrics like wool knits or fleece
• Outer: a shell that blocks wind and rain — a puffer or coat

Spring and autumn: big temperature swings

In between seasons, the difference between morning, evening and midday temperatures is large, making it hard to get through the day in one outfit. A light knit or shirt with an easy outer layer on top works well. Cotton and synthetic blends wrinkle less and are easy to care for, making them versatile at this time of year. On windy days, a tightly woven outer fabric that blocks the wind changes how warm you feel more than thickness does. In late autumn, when indoor heating starts, adjust with an easy-to-remove outer layer rather than a heavy inner one.

How to read a blend label

The label inside a garment lists its fibers and their percentages. The fiber with the larger share shows its character more strongly in the garment, and for care it's safest to follow the more delicate fiber in the blend. For example, a knit mixing wool with synthetics may be easier to care for than pure wool, but as long as it contains wool, avoid hot water and strong friction. Even a small amount of stretch fiber makes a garment much more comfortable, but also more vulnerable to high-heat drying.

If you have sensitive skin

Wool often feels scratchy because the ends of coarse fibers poke the skin. Finer types of wool are less itchy, and wearing a cotton or other soft layer underneath prevents direct contact. If synthetics feel stuffy or itchy, try switching just the layer against your skin to a natural fabric like cotton. Washing new clothes once before wearing them reduces leftover finishing agents. If itching or a rash continues, it's best to see a dermatologist.

Check before you buy

You can't change the fabric after you buy a garment, so look at the label before you pay. Checking just a few things means fewer clothes that sit unworn.

• When you'll wear it: for sweaty activity or everyday use
• Fiber content: what the main fabric is
• Care symbols: machine washable or dry clean only
• Hold it up to the light and feel it: the density and thickness of the weave